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Volcanos in Mexico...

Ongoing Expedition November 2002 - February 2003.

Mexico hosts some of the most legendary volcanoes on earth with a history of eruptions dating back to the ancient times of the Aztek and the Mayan cultures. Considering the immense size of Mexico (Mexico is larger than all the other states of Central America together, or about 1/2 the size of Europa), we find a wide variety of different volcanic systems related to the restlessness of the Pacific-plate, the Cocos plate and the North American plate. The movement of these plates generates a complex puzzle of subduction and rift zones responsible for the hundreds of extinct, dormant as well as active volcanoes in Mexico.

During our intense crossing of Mexico within only 6 weeks together with Marco and Nadia (Vinelz/CH) we concentrated on the two currently most active volcanoes: Fuego de Colima and Popocatepetl.

Expedition Summary " Fuego de Colima" (Dec 2002)

First we would like to thank to Dr. Mauricio Breton Gonzales of the Observatorio Vulcanologico at the University of Colima for his time, his help (during his christmas vacation) and for the great documentation and infos about Fuego de Colima. We will never forget that You offered us Your last "Journal of volcanology and geothermal research"!.

The andesitic strato volcano "Fuego de Colima" lies in southwestern Mexico at the border of Jalisco and Colima within a system of rift zones east of the so called Middle America Trench that generated at least 12 other major volcanos within about 200km around Fuego de Colima. While Fuego has had significant eruptive activity over the last five centuries - leading to its designation as the most active volcano in Mexico -, the other volcanos in the region are considered dormant or extinct. Some like "Nevado de Colima" would be just as beautiful, characteristic and interesting to look at.

 Fuego de Colima's "Plinian"  and "Subplinian" Eruptions/Explosions.                                            (Film-Extractions 18.-22. Dec 2002)

 Andesitic block lava flows (daytime left, at dusk - right) 

Within the latest centuries Fuego de Colima showed major eruptions about every one hundred years. The most violent were the Plinian eruptions (great pyroclastic eruptions) in 1818 and 1913. The 1818 eruption is considered the biggest eruption in the 19th century which even effected Mexico City with strong ash falls (470km east of Colima). Following the 1913 eruption Fuego entered a period of apparent inactivity until 1961. Since 1997 Fuego shows increased continuous activities that lead to the speculation that it is evolving towards the culmination of an eruptive cycle that could parallel the eruptions of 1818/1913. 

390'000 persons living close (within 40 km) to Fuego are considered in danger from pyroclastic flows, scoria falls and lahars, that could occur during a major eruptive event.  The work of Dr. Mauricio Breton Gonzales and his collegues to closely monitor the volcano and prepare measures to prevent such possible disaster is imminent. Check out the webpage of the University of Colima for more information about current seismological data and the eruptive status of the mountain: http://www.ucol.mx

 

At present (December 2002) people are not allowed within a 6km radius to the mountain and the village of Yerbabuena was partly evacuated. There are military stations blocking the access on the few major routes to the mountain, although we did not have a hard time to get the passing permits after they registered our cars.

Fuego de Colima at present (december 2002) emits huge lava bolders that tumble down the mountain every couple of minutes. Sometimes they are the size of shipping-containers and, while hitting other big boulders, they crash and produce a spectacular firework with noise and tremor which we will never forget.

For Franziska and me, Fuego de Colima so far is our closest experience of observing a series of block lava flows/eruptions of this impressive size.

But to tell about our expedition... - let's start at the beginning:

 

Getting there and getting ready for expeditions:

 Thanx to the help & information of Dr. Mauricio
 Breton Gonzales
we find our way to La Yerbabuena  (the closest - partly evacuated - village at Fuego) and past the military blockades to a perfect medow  to set up base camp and start our expeditions:


...what a spectacular 4x4 drive up and along cattle tracks...!!   :)


Basecamp at Fuego de Colima (18.12.2002)


...drive view from the city of Colima to Yerbabuena... (Foto: Marco, 17.12.2002)

Eine 1. Evaluations - Expedition ergibt:
Aufstieg zum Fuego de Colima durch dichten Dschungel, Agaven- und Kakteenfelder ist schwierig, anstrengend und mitunter gefährlich. Grosse Gefahr im kargen, unübersichtlichen Gelände in Sackgassen zu geraten. Klare Erkenntnis: Mindest Expeditionsdauer von 2 Tagen notwendig - falls möglich mit lokalem Führer.

Resolution of our  first evaluation expedition: 
The climbing of Fuego through the jungle, slopes with strongly abundant agaves and cactus is difficult and strenuous - as well as dangerous. Add big danger of getting lost in one-way spots. We consider that we will need at least two days for an expedition as well as a local guide - if possible.

Expedition at Fuego de Colima 19.-22. Dezember 2002:

The Expedition:

Day two-four: 
In Yerbabuena we found "Maximino" - a local guide - who helped us to get up these slopes savely - in a strenuous 9 hours of struggling up the mountain:





Fuego de Colima - Basecamp at the slope (only 50 meters off the fall line of bigger boulders, south-west of the top)

Sunset at the slopes of Fuego de Colima and preparing a fire for the long night that lies in front...

Night temperatures drop to about 5 degrees celsius at night. Together with sometimes fierce winds on the mountain it is imparative to prepare against hypothermia. Sleeping bags would be a good idea!....

 

The Eruption - Experience...
 
(at present just pictures extracted from film.  - The great pictures yet to come...)







 Daytime events do not show the red colour of the glowing andesitic block lava flows... 

For an expedition to the slopes of volcano de fuego we strongly recommend a guide. We stranded two times trying to find a way up
through the jungle and through the steep boulder fields which make the ascent very hard, if not impossible.

If You need a guide: "Maximino" is a great person and was a truly competent and experienced guide. You can find him by asking
Your way around in the partly evacuated village of Yerbabuena. It's best if You can speak a little Spanish as Maximino does not
speak any English.

(There is much more to tell...and more to come... - especially the fotos - which I will scan and publish as soon
 as i developed the negatives).

___________________________________________________

Expedition Summary "Popocatepetl" (Dec 2002)

Popocatepetl (Popo) lies only about 50kms southeast of Mexico city and can be easily reached by car as well as public transport. 
ogether with the dormant Volcan Iztacihuatl (Itza) it forms a mountain complex of impressive size and height.(5200 Meters).

At present Popocatepetl is in a very active state and every couple of minutes - hours or days it creates minor to major pyroclastic
eruptions with ashfalls towering 50 meters up to some kilometers height. No access to Popocatepetl is given and the Popo
basecamps to climb the mountain are closed and monitored by military. 

You (currently) need a special permit to even access the road to La Joya, issued in Amemameca (just right of the church at the
city plaza - during business hours). With our two "volcanos"- trucks and our story we were able to pass the military
checkpoint without official permission and we drove up to 4000 meters (up to the radio station) at La Joya which offered
perfect views to both: Popo and Itza:

     
Popo, 29th december 2002                                                                                          Itza, 29th december 2002

 

Night at Popo:

We were delighted to meet sr. Miguel Angel Cortes Espinal who invited us to spend the evening in his humble mountain home from where he is working on GPS-based cartography of the trails to Itza and spent part of his life studying and hiking these impressive volcanos:


sicsac@prodigy.net.mx

Our conversation with Miguel as well as local guides which we met in La Joya made clear that climbing Popocatepetl would not be easy. Only with a special permit from CENAPRED one would get  closer to Popo than we just did and with the current status of Popo's activity, very accurate seismological data and forecasts of the mountains behaviour would be imminent not to risk lifes at such an expedition. 

So on the 30th of December Franziska and I drove back to Mexico city to visit CENAPRED, while Marco&Nadia took off east to Puebla.

After 3 hours of searching the Cenapred Offices which lie south of Mexico city we finally found the offices closed due to vacations and all we could presently get was a leafelet about the work of CENAPRED and some important adresses that we could contact after the 6th of January 2003:
(Ing. Tomas Sanchez - tsp@cenapred.unam.mx ext: 17010)

So.. - despite of our strong wish to organise an expedition to Popo, we were forced to postpone this for latter times - and we finally got back to our friends at the 31st of december in the nice city of Tasco from where we were heading south at the same day to spend New Years Eve in Acapulco.

So... - we finally got the Acapulco - fireworks - instead of closeup's of Popo's pyroclastic eruptions:

Pyroclastic Eruptions of Popocatepetl:

From our view point at 4000 Meters elevation we were able to observe different series of pyroclastic eruptions:




 Pyroclastic Eruptions on Popocatepetl (29th - 30th december 2002)

.... But - who knows.... - Popo was such a fascinating mountain - we would like to go back there! .....

 
Volcano Expeditions / Vulkan Expeditionen / Hints & Tips / Trails to active volcanoes 
Copyright © 2003 Marius Staerkle "volcano expeditions around the pacific (ring of fire)"
Date: 18th May 2004